Agent against excesses of seaweed;

Agent against excesses of seaweed in your aquarium.

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Product Description


5 ml per 25 l water.


Apply again after 3 days and exchange one third of the water.



Volume / Weight Packing EAN
ml g oz ks
20  20  0,68  25 8594000251927
 100  100  3,38  10 8594000250418
 250  250  8,45  5 8594000251853
500 500 3 8594000251590
1000 1000 3 8594000251002

Additional Information



Algicid is an agent used to suppress the occurrence of algae and flagellate in aquariums and in smaller decorative ponds. This agent is very specific; therefore we shall summarize the possible options of algae occurrence, algae types and possible means of defending against them.

Algae need very specific conditions for their growth. Unfortunately, the best way to grow them is to set up a brand new aquarium. In this period, the biological cleaning process does not work, the bottom structure and the filtration media are not yet inhabited by denitrifying bacteria. We must decide whether to use air circulation or filters or both. If we decide for filtering, there is yet another aesthetic dilemma: should we only use filtration? should we suck oxygen into the motor heads using a hose? should we keep the motor-filter running or should it be subdued? Moreover, most beginner aquarists do not have a clear idea about the type of the lighting source, about light spectrum or light intensity. Water chemistry used for the new aquarium is also very important. Inappropriate alternatives of all these factors can contribute to the undesirable propagation of algae. The most urgent danger causing the propagation of algae is improper, non-functional or insufficient planting of aquarium plants, as they are the most important competitors of algae.

Let us go back to the individual factors:

BOTTOM: It is recommended to use river sand, fraction 4-8 mm, which has been washed several times with lukewarm water, a layer of at least 5 cm at the front glass, and more at the back (it depends on individual consideration). If there is a danger of large differences between sand temperature and aquarium water column (such as when the tank is set upon a cool place), always use a safe, verified heating cable under the aquarium bottom sand Remember that aquarium fish must be kept warm.

PLANTS: If it is possible, plant many aquarium plants of many kinds. It is very practical to use plants which grow submerged (under water), as they start flourishing much sooner. A very common mistake is that taller plants are planted in front of smaller plants – this later leads to radical and undesirable interventions into the aquarium balance.

ROOTS AND DECORATIONS: It is recommended to boil them out. They could lead to introduction of infections, moulds, algae, etc.

EQUIPMENT: Based on the size and the fish of the aquarium, select a proper filtration unit. If it is possible, the stream of filtered water should take down only little amounts oxygen into water. Oxygen strikes out carbon dioxide which is necessary for the successful growth of aquarium plants and moreover it supports the growth of algae. It is recommended to install a CO2 applicator into the tank. Producers all over the world offer various models. It is very beneficial for the plants!

WATER: At least in the beginning as soft as possible, with a lower pH, and naturally with regard to the bred fish. Throughout the whole period when plants grow in the tank and the filters get activated, it is recommended to monitor water hardness, pH and the presence of nitrite content in the aquarium water.

LIGHTING: Again, conform to the rule “plants are first”! It is recommended to use lighting appliances with a warm colour tone, such as a combination of bulbs and fluorescent lamps. Especially as regards fluorescent tubes, use the “warm white” type. In this area, there are hardly any problems, as world producers of aquarium fluorescent tubes specify the light spectrum graphs on the packages, so that you can choose the most suitable light spectrum. Blue light (“sea light”) is absolutely unacceptable for freshwater aquariums. Here is a formula to calculate the source intensity (works with aquariums 50 cm deep): 2 W / 1 dm2 of surface area for bulb lighting, 2/3 W / 1 dm2 of surface area for fluorescent tube lighting. The length of daily lighting must be determined with regard to the tropical day’s length.

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE: Never overfeed the fish! Keep the food varied. Perform regular mud discharges and meanwhile change about 1/3 of aquarium water Remove damaged marginal leaves of plants. Even in the case of a long-time functioning aquariums it is recommended to perform regular tests of water quality (see paragraph 5).

If these points are observed, it is very likely that no algae will grow in your aquarium. If algae do appear, we always try to modify the aquarium conditions: pH, water hardness, lighting intensity or lighting length. It is possible – temporarily – to add “bottom fish” into the aquarium, which disrupt and damage the algae (e.g. the species Botia, Gyrinocheilus, Ancistrus, Corydoras, etc.).

Disrupt the algae manually on the bottom and on the sides, suck the algae out and collect the floating fibres into a filtration medium. At least for the period of fighting the algae, it is recommended to use filters with electric heads which perfectly whirl water and do not allow the algae to settle down again. These filters also prevent the algae from growing and suck in all the mechanically disturbed remains into the filtration medium which must be cleared every day.

It is recommended to apply appropriate doses of ALGICID, AMAZON and ACRIFLAVIN then, which will help stop the growth of algae for good.






Green algae

(Black Molly)*

Fibres (attached/clustered), turbidity

Many different species, they love light, some are very decorative, usually harmless. They are a sign of harmony in the aquarium.

Especially in garden ponds they create a very attractive and oxygenic growth.

Manually disrupt and filter off the bottom, the side glass panes and the equipment. The agents ALGICID, AMAZON and ACRIFLAVIN should only be used in water with a pH over 7.

Shade the aquarium. As regards ponds, add plants which will shade the surface (water-lilies, eichhornia, pistia).

Wash the filtration medium often.

Blue-green algae

Silky blue-green coating

These algae are capable of killing everything, but they are also easy to disrupt and remove.

Never let the grow steadily – provide intense filtration and disrupt them. Turn the light off. Refill tank with acidic soft forest water.

Use the agents ALGICID and AMAZON.

Wash the filtration medium often.

ACRIFLAVIN is not effective in acidic water!

Diatoms (brown algae)

Attached brown-green algae

They do not like light. “Brown algae” is a commonly use but erroneous name.

Provide extra light. Manually remove from glass panes and aquarium equipment.

Use the agents ALGICID and AMAZON.

Wash the filtration medium often.

*Black Molly is a viviparous fish species which eat algae of certain kinds (e.g. diatoms), but only as a dietary supplement. Their digestive tract is accommodated to eating “green” food. Digestion takes place in alkaline environment.


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